do they really need an introduction?
Cannoli, when done right, are the perfect 3-part pastry: crispy, tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough; light and smooth, rich sweetened ricotta cheese filling; inclusions and toppings to decorate the ends, typically nuts, fruits or chocolate. Pistachio, orange rind and dark chocolate are the classic choices, but this is where the fun can really be found!
Cannoli are probably the best-known Italian dessert worldwide, for good reason. They come from Sicily, where chefs and home cooks can make magic happen with ricotta – think of all the delicious appetizers, entrees and desserts that celebrate this unique Italian cheese…
Anyway, cannoli. The name means “little tubes”. Sicilians proudly always refer to them as cannoli siciliani. The rest of us just say cannoli. Even when we should technically say cannolo; but is it wrong to always speak of these in the plural?
History of Cannoli
What we know
It is clear enough that cannoli originate from Sicily, the Mediterranean island that is the football to Italy’s boot. Likely around Palermo, the capital city which has been a culinary center for over 2,700 years!
The oldest cannoli recipes consist of a fried crispy pastry shell, formed around a reed tube; a creamy ricotta filling, flavored with candied pumpkin cubes (zuccata). You’ll have trouble finding the candied pumpkin variety nowadays, even if strolling the streets of Palermo – chocolate chips are much more the standard.
Cannoli making continues to be serious business in Sicily, where there’s a pasticceria on every corner serving locals and tourists alike. The quality and standards of each bakery can be judged solely on the basis of their cannoli.
What might be true
There are many legends that tell the origins of the Sicilian Cannoli, but they’re so old it’s impossible to know fact from fun (or spin):
- Cannoli were originally prepared as a treat during carnival season, maybe even as a fertility symbol, when everyone was getting their festivity on before Lent. Fried foods have been associated with Mardi Gras since medeivel times.
- Or maybe cannoli were invented by some clever baker in the town of Piana dei Greci, now called Piana degli Albanesi. (They at least claim the World’s Best title and celebrate La Festa di Cannoli where a huge cannolo over four meters long is made.)
- Probably cannoli have bridged Islam and Christianity. They were born around 1000 AD in the city of Caltanissetta during Arab occupation. Caltanissetta, or Qal’at al-nissa, means “Castle of the women“ and inside the Arab prince’s harem, where the women would pass time by preparing extravagant dishes, they modified an existing Arab sweet made of ricotta, almonds and honey to create the first cannoli as we would recognize. With the end of the Arab domination in Sicily, the harem disappeared but some of these women remained in Sicily and converted to Christianity, bringing the recipe with them to the convents.
- Or maybe the Muslim women simply shared the recipe with the Christian nuns of Caltanissetta.
- Or maybe the nuns came up with them on their own.
Whatever and wherever this sweet was created, we’re glad it was, of course. Caltanissetta is smack in the middle of the island, so that works for me – Cannoli are surely ancient Muslim / Christian festival foods born 1000 years ago in the center of Sicily and today celebrated worldwide and yearlong!
Today
Who doesn’t know cannoli, right? Today you don’t have to be in Sicily, Italy, Little Italy, or even Eataly to find this pastry. You don’t even need to be in an Italian restaurant. You can find them at grocery stores, food trucks, wedding receptions, filled and topped with all kinds of ingredients that might shock a traditional nonna – and they’re all great!
The Godfather
“Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.” This 1972 crime film was the highest-grossing film of all time and dominated the Academy Awards. Even if you’ve never seen it, you probably know the line. Not a lot of good behaviors here to be modeled – but respect for cannoli was one that non-family members could try out. Huge press at a time when a lot of people were getting comfortable trying foods from other cultures: Boeuf Bourguignon, Black Forest Cake, Fondue, Quiche, Cannoli.
Cannoli’s gonna make him an offer he can’t refuse.
So What’s Authentic Cannoli?
Chocolate. It belongs in cannoli as much as any other ingredient for sure. But since eating chocolate wasn’t even invented until the 1800’s, how can an “authentic” cannoli recipe include it? Unless “authentic” means how your grandma made it, and then you’re good.
So clearly “authentic” can change over time.
- Historical cannoli? – sheep’s milk ricotta, candied pumpkin or citrus and nuts.
- Authentic cannoli? – let’s say still with the sheep’s milk, but chocolate chips and pistachios and candied orange peel are convincing.
- Modern cannoli? – have at it! Nutella, candy bar, pumpkin spice, maple bacon, whatever hits your sweet spot!
Shell, Filling, Topping – enjoy!